My go-to pair of pants for the past year and a half have been my Momotaro 0305TNs. They were my first nice pair of denim, and lived through all the seasons, different countries, many washes, and repairs. They are, by no means, retired, but it was time to add to the family.
I purchased my pair of Momotaros at Blue Owl Workshop and had a very pleasant experience. Needless to say, when I was looking for my next pair, they were my first stop. I looked through their selection, and had my eyes on the PBO-001, an 18oz unsanforized Black/Indigo pair made by Pure Blue Japan.
As described by BOW in “The Mill“:
The inaugural installment in the Pure Blue Japan x Blue Owl Workshop collaboration series pushes the boundaries of Pure Blue Japan’s extensive denim catalog. Built using Pure Blue Japan’s critically acclaimed 18oz unsanforized denim, the jeans have undergone a unique multi-layer dye process in which the indigo warp yarn is over-dyed in black pigment. With wear, the jeans will show a varied three-layered fade going from black to blue to white, while highlighting the fabric’s incredible slub texture and grain.
These are also a contest pair, which runs until January 1st, 2019.
Jay Doughten, managing director at BOW, was very prompt and helpful with sizing, and within 3 days of purchasing, I had, in my hands, my new pair. Upon receipt, I was very excited by what I had in my hands.
They are definitely very unique. My Momotaros were unique in the details, such as the selvege, pockets, and threads, but this pair is unique in the very fabric it is made of.
That being said, these PBJs are no slouch by any means. The blue selvedge line sticks out against the black dye and the Blue Owl logo is a nice touch on the back pocket. I hope that the white thread in the owl doesn’t discolor with wear, although I do suspect that it will. The deerskin patch is very soft to the touch.
Being my first unsanforized pair, I was a bit taken aback when I felt denim. It’s slubby and rough, and definitely very thick. Slipping them on before soaking, they were way too large. I didn’t get them hemmed, even though BOW offers free hemming, for I wanted to do the soak myself and cuff my jeans.
I had trust in Jay with sizing, though, and marched forward for the soak. I decided, for fitting purchases, to wear the denim for a bit while they soaked. As such, I had to use lukewarm water instead of cold water for the first 20 minutes, before switching over to cold water.
I let them hang, and watched the indigo drip. They are overdyed, so a bit of indigo loss won’t be the end of the world.
Wearing them for the first time the day after, the button fly still a bit damp, they fitted a tad snug. I am anticipating there to be some stretching over time, though hopefully not too much. Some knee bags formed on the first day, but as a student, I sit and bend my knees a lot, so it was going to happen sooner or later.
And, so it begins. I will be documenting this pair on a new Instagram Account: @frozen_pbjbow. Be sure to follow for daily updates!